Mo-An

Mo-An sits near the top of Yoshidayama in eastern Kyoto, close to Kyoto University and Ginkakuji. It’s a little different from most Kyoto cafés because getting there is part of the experience: from Keihan Demachiyanagi Station it’s about a 30-minute walk, while the Jōdoji or Ginkakuji-michi bus stops are roughly a 15-minute walk away. From Yoshidayama’s summit rest area, it’s only about two minutes on foot. There are several walking routes up the mountain, so expect some steps and slopes along the way.

The café is housed in a historic wooden building originally constructed as the tenshin-seki, or dining pavilion, of a tea garden created by businessman and tea enthusiast Tanigawa Mojiro during the Taishō period. His tea garden consisted of eight buildings on Yoshidayama, including tea rooms and spaces for guests. The building that now houses Mo-An has retained much of its original character, and its history is an important part of what makes the café special. The name Mo-An comes from Tanigawa’s artistic name.

Today, Mo-An is focused on drinks and café items rather than full meals. Coffee and tea are available, along with seasonal café offerings such as shaved ice.

The interior has a lovely old-Japanese atmosphere without feeling overly formal. The original wooden structure remains visible, with exposed timber and a simple, understated design. Large windows surround much of the second floor, filling the room with natural light and opening up views of the surrounding trees and Kyoto beyond. It feels more like a peaceful mountain retreat or traditional Japanese tea-house than a typical modern café.

The biggest attraction is the setting and the view. Mo-An was designed with its elevated position and surrounding scenery in mind, and the large windows give you views across Kyoto as well as toward the mountains and the areas around Daimonji. The combination of the historic wooden building, forested Yoshidayama setting and panoramic views makes the café feel wonderfully removed from the busy streets of central Kyoto. It’s the kind of place where the journey up the mountain is almost as enjoyable as sitting down with a coffee once you arrive.